Five Tux
Mistakes You Definitely Shouldn't Make
The road to the perfect tux can be fraught with peril. Steer
clear of these "don'ts" and you'll make it to the
altar looking fine.
After spending three years behind the counter at a tuxedo
shop, I can tell you that there are exactly no good reasons
for you to call your tuxedo shop on the morning of your wedding.
None. Saturday-morning calls from grooms always fall
into the "My ____ doesn't fit, help me, help me, please help
me" variety. Sadly, the morning of one's wedding is neither
the time to find out what doesn't fit, nor alter the train
wreck that's about to happen.
Waiting too long to pick up-or try on-their tuxedos is just
one of a handful of common tuxedo mistakes grooms make. Here
are five others. Follow these tips to avoid them-or remember
to keep the phone handy come Saturday morning.
Mistake #1: Using a Shop That Doesn't Measure Up
Buying or renting, Charles Burkhalter says make sure the shop
you choose has a good reputation. "Clothes have to fit properly
in order to look their best," Burkhalter, VP of Creative Services
for Lord West, makers of Perry Ellis formalwear, says. "And
it's important to go to a reputable place to be fitted properly."
Experienced shops, Burkhalter points out, know how to keep you
from swimming in a jacket, or wearing pants that are too short,
too tight or both. Don't know a good store in your area? Burkhalter
suggests asking friends and family for recommendations.
Mistake #2: You Forget That It Takes Two To Tango
Marc Atkins, president of Mr. Tux, a 44-store tuxedo company
in New England, says grooms don't always remember that the tuxedo
they're selecting must be built for two. "The most common mistake
the groom makes is picking a tuxedo style without the bride's
input or blessing," Atkins, who runs the 52-year-old family
business, says. Failure to do so-in a timely manner-will lead
to the sort of premarital meltdown that everyone wants to avoid.
"Suddenly we're changing the whole wedding party's style of
tuxedos the day before the wedding, and dealing with a very
emotional bride," he says. And nobody wants that.
Mistake #3: You Buy On The Fly
"If you're going to buy a tuxedo," Dan McCampbell, VP, Men's
Fashion Director, Sak's Fifth Avenue, says, "plan ahead. Most
men only own one tux, so you need to think about the quality
and style of the suit." McCampbell suggests choosing a classic
style from name brands like Zena, Hickey Freeman and others,
and using a top-notch tailor to ensure a perfect fit.
After that, take a good, long look in the mirror. "You need
to decide what's best for your body type," McCampbell says.
"If you've got a shorter, rounder face or heavier body type,
you should probably choose a peak lapel jacket. The lines
bring the body up, and accentuate height." Taller, thinner
men will want to choose a shawl lapel in a three-button or
one button silhouette. And remember, comfort counts. "Make
sure you look at the fabric," McCampbell says. "A year-round
weight, like worsted wool, is a good choice. Fine wool breathes
better and doesn't wrinkle as easily." Prices for a good tuxedo,
McCampbell says, start around $600 and head north.
Mistake #4: Your Rental Isn't Made From The Right Stuff
High-end fabric, says Donna Simonelli of Fabian Couture Group
International, makers of Fumagalli, Lubiam and Geoffrey Beene
tuxedos, are available in rentals, too. It's just that many
wedding parties don't know about it. "People tend to look through
books and select tuxedoes on image, not by the way they feel
and fit," she says. "Very often there are more options than
what they're looking at." Simonelli, whose background with
Fabian includes customer service, design, sales, and marketing,
says the difference between looking good and looking great
may be hanging by a thread. "The super 110's and 120's (number
of threads per inch) are available on more and more tuxes,"
she says. And higher thread counts, she says, add up to a
better experience all the way around. "Traditional tuxedos
have 70 and 80 thread counts. The higher thread counts are
lighter, and there's no comparison in how they look, how they
drape (hang) or hold up through the day. These are wonderful
garments, and wearing a tuxedo shouldn't be a chore."
Mistake #5: You Save A Couple Bucks, But End Up Paying For
It
Quality costs, but it counts-here's why: "You're not going to
be the first one wearing that rental tuxedo, but you don't want
it to look that way," says Nancy Haboush, President of Mr. Neat's
Formalwear, a 20-store chain in Colorado and Wyoming. "Designer
labels, like Ralph Lauren, Perry Ellis, or Claiborne are all
going to cost a bit more than a generic or private label, but
they're worth it. These designers make a better tuxedo, and
they look great even after it's been rented more than once."
The difference in quality shows up in the price, with generic
labels running around $60-$80, depending on where you live,
and designer labels running from $90 to $175. Haboush also says
to make sure you put your best formal foot forward.
"Great shoes aren't free," she says. "If your tuxedo company
is throwing in the shoes, stop and think, 'How can they do
that?' If the shoes are free, they probably look free. Great-looking
shoes cost money, and you should gladly pay for them. Your
feet will thank you."
Haboush says price matters down the road, too. "It's your
wedding day. There are lots of places to consider saving money-but
what you wear is not the place. That's the only thing that
lasts-the pictures, the memories, the way you looked and felt
that day. They're all tied in to what you were wearing." Make
no mistake about it.
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